Arête du Diable Mt. Blanc du Tacul

  • Mont-Blanc
  • Alpinisme

All in all very dry conditions at Chamonix. Several rockfalls and serac collapse witnessed. Rock routes in good conditions only the bergschrunds could be tricky.

Itinerario salita

Start at the Torino hut to the cirque du maudit. We took the right Variant up to the col du Diable. Also the orginal start up the couloir was done by two parties. The couloir is very dry and the inicial icefield was covered with stones.Right Variant => Bergshrund easy to cross and only the first 50m brittle - probably the safer option in dry conditions. The climbing was pleasent due to the mild temperatures. Good to climb in alpine boots. Exit from Brêche Isoleé to Tacul also completely dry and a lot of loose blocs.

Itinerario discesa

From Mt. Blanc du Tacul down to the col du Midi. All in all good conditions. Relatively fresh signs of serac collapse - see information at ohm mountain conditions. Big crevasse at the end of the face - abseil anchor in place. At this point you are fully exposed to possibly icefall for a few minutes. Also after the abseil you should try to reach the col du midi asap.

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