Mountain conditions update

loghi partners

As they say mountain climbing is dangerous, and there are many dangers to deal with.

This service is a free and institutional teamwork and has been implemented as part of project III ALCOTRA n° 125 Safety in the Mountains around Mont Blanc, funded starting from 2008 by Compagnia di San Paolo di Torino.

This action is promoted by the Safe Mountain Foundation of Courmayeur and the High Mountain Office of Chamonix- La Chamoniarde.

You are strongly advised to consult all available bulletins before each ascent and to make use of the support of mountain guides before undertaking any excursion.

All information found on the site is from staff foundation's accounts according to region's persons in charge and is therefore closely tied to specific weather and snow conditions, which can change unexpectedly. Furthermore, the situations described should be considered in the light of an individual's physical condition and his mountaineering skills .

We are not responsible for the use of the information published on the web

  1. Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur

    The beginning of this week welcomed us with the arrival of clouds and some precipitation; let's see what will happen for the next few days.

    From a meteorological point of view, after a long period of pleasant summer weather, from yesterday evening a vast perturbed front reached the Valle d'Aosta. For today great variability is expected with alternating dry and showers or thunderstorms, while tomorrow precipitation will be more intense and frequent. This situation will be associated with a drop in temperatures that will record an isotherm of 0 degrees around 3,600 / 3,800 meters today, 3,400 / 3,600 meters tomorrow. The next evolution is uncertain, with a possible partial anticyclonic recovery only from mid-week.

    High mountains: the situation that has continued to this day, characterized by high altitude and very dry areas, could undergo evolution (already this morning a very light layer of snow settled above 3,500 meters). From mid-week we will be able to verify any improvements and changes for the various sectors.

    Medium mountain: the rains arriving especially the next night and tomorrow, even if not foreseen as particularly intense, could sometimes cause phenomena of increase in the flow of streams and watercourses that could present problems in their crossing. Recall that, especially in the mountains, it may happen that the center of greatest intensity of rainfall causes waves of floods that quickly reach slopes even far from the heart of the storm. It is therefore recommended to pay particular attention along the paths, especially where watercourses and streams are crossed (the latter, even if normally dry, with thunderstorms could give rise to even major runoff phenomena).

  2. OHM Chamonix
    A quick update for the weekend.  There has been little change since the last update. Given that with the temperatures are now typical for the time of year and there is good re-freezing at night, the conditions have remained stable.  

    Aiguille du Tour sector:  the Col Supérieur du Tour is still passable. It has been reported that he fixed rope here is badly damaged and should not be used. 

    The Drus traverse remains feasible.  Some parties went for the Aiguille Verte by the Moine Ridge today, (Friday) but no feedback yet on conditions and especially for the bergschrund, (more info Saturday !!!) 

    For the Leschaux sector: " the approaches to the Aiguille de Leschaux and the Petites Jorasses are in good condition.  There have not been any parties on the Grandes Jorasses for 10 days.  There is snow on the face above about 3800m....".

    The Three Monts route up Mont Blanc remains committing and technical with, as usual, sections exposed to serac fall.   The Tacul bergschrund is awkward, there is ice on Col du Mont Maudit, and icy snow on the Mur de la Côte. 

    The crevasses on the Miage glacier, (approach to the Durier from Plan Glacier,) are opening up but passable if there is a good freeze.  The recent snowfall has improved conditions for the Bionnassay traverse. There is no longer any ice below the summit or on the ridge, (which remains narrow and airy). 

    The Tré la Tête glacier has lots of crevasses but is still OK.  On the Miage, the majority of the parties are stopping at the Col des Dômes. The slope up to the 3rd Dôme is ice and there is ice between this and the 2nd Dôme.  The Col de la Bérangère is no longer feasible. 

    The Gonella hut closes this weekend. The conditions have deteriorated. There are lots of crevasses open on the glacier, with ice and stonefall below the Col des Aiguilles Grises.

    Monzino sector: there has been no improvement at altitude. A via ferrata has recently been constructed at the level of the Col Chasseur. It provides a link between the Monzino hut and the Borelli bivouac, giving a pleasant 2 days tour. (Information in Italian here:   https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=2708609995839249&id=104501702916771&__tn__=K-R )  As well as the usual via ferrata equipment, ice axe and crampons are also advisable.

    For the Aiguilles Marbrées traverse, there has been a rockfall in the sector of the descent. It is now probably best done there and back from the Col de Rochefort.

    Ice has been reported for the Vierge / Petit Flambeau.

    Ice is beginning to appear on the Rochefort Ridge.

    There are still some parties doing the Jorasses traverse.  (The OHM route book has recent info, cahier de courses).
  3. OHM Chamonix
    The first update for this August. 

    There has been little change for the high mountain since the last report of 31st July.

    During the bad weather on Wednesday, it rained up to 4000m, with just a little snow settling above that. For several years now, rain at this altitude is no longer considered to be exceptional.

    The rocks will dry quickly but there is little hope that the snow or mixed routes will come into condition. Be aware of the risk of verglas on the northern faces or on certain snow slopes. 

    Care is also needed with the choice of routes.  A passage of warm weather, with the isotherm around 4500m and strong winds, is forecast for Friday and Saturday. 
     
    Tour Sector

    The Col Supérieur du Tour is still feasible, (avoid the ice which has several unstable boulders on it.)  The bergschrund on the normal route for the Aiguille du Tour can still be crossed.  Parties are still doing the Tête Blanche and the Petite Fourche. The Table Ridge remains feasible, (care needed between the lower part of the gully and the ridge.) 

    Argentière Sector

    The Glacier du Milieu is no longer practicable in ascent (ice).  It is possible for experienced parties to descend it, e.g. from the Jardin Ridge. (This involves abseilling a combination of two routes bolted in 2018, "Par des Anges" then "Spigolo": chain belays, 50m abseils.)
    More information at the hut.

    Nothing special to report for the rock routes. 

    Charpoua Sector

    The traverse of the Drus remains in condition.  It is strongly recommended to check out the glacier approach the evening before.

    Talèfre Sector

    The information below is taken directly from the hut’s Facebook page. 

    "Concerning the rock routes, conditions are good. The bergschrunds are beginning to open slightly but remain OK for the Moine, Nonne, l'Evêque and the Point de Pierre à Joseph.

    The Moine Ridge on the Verte is still being done. However, the bergschrund is widening.  The lower part is dry but there is still snow on the ridge.

    Nobody has done the Droites recently. The S face and the diagonal gully are very dry.
    There is still snow up to the Col des Droites to reach the Courtes, despite a lot of snow sluffs off the Droites S face.  Nobody is doing the traverse of the Courtes for the moment, the ridge after the summit is dry.  Snow remains on the descent from the Col des Cristaux.

    The Pointe Isabelle is still feasible though the bergschrund before the ridge is now quite wide.  Some ice is starting to show through before arriving at the summit plateau.” 

    Leschaux Sector

    There was a major rock fall on 4/8 on the lower part of the Walker Spur, Cassin Route, (Rebuffat Diedre.) With the verglas and the small amount of fresh snow, it would be wise to avoid this route for the moment.  
    The rock routes should dry very quickly. 

    Envers des Aiguilles

    Here also there has been little change.  The direct start to California Dream is no longer feasible. One needs to start by a ramp on the right. 

    For the descent from the Grepon, it is best to abseil down the West face, (from the "CP") then cross the glacier to the rognon.

    Plan de l'Aiguille

    Crampons are advisable for the snow on the approach to the Contamine Vaucher (Gendarme Rouge du Peigne). They can also be useful to reach the normal route on the Peigne (and the Minettes Spur), where despite a good track, the icy snow in the morning can be awkward.  

    Aiguille du Midi Sector

    It rained all day and night at the hut, (Wednesday).  Be aware of verglaced snow on the faces!

    The Trois Monts route is, therefore, awkward and much more technical than usual.  The Tacul bergschrund is overhanging and strenuous, (3m; 2 technical ice axes useful.) The same is true for the Col du Mont Maudit, (some ice, the fixed ropes are frozen into the snow/ice and not usable.)
    The seracs, (Tacul summit and the lower part of Mont Maudit,) are still there! 

    No reports about the bergschrunds for the rock routes, (S Face of the Aiguille du Midi, Pointes Lachenal etc).  No news is good news?  

    Mont Blanc by the Grands Mulets.

    The hut is closed for the season. It opens again in Spring 2020. 

    Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

    The route has been affected by the recent rain and snow mix. The amount of fresh snow is negligible. The summit was re-tracked on Thursday.  The rain, together with the wind, has coated the snow with ice.  Good cramponning skills are essential. 
    Conditions are typical for the time of year: The Grand Couloir is dry, (the stonefall no worse than usual) The Bosses ridge is in good condition. 

    Miage / Bionnassay Sector

    The Mont Tondu is still being done, weaving between the ice sections, even though it does not look that attractive.

    The Dômes de Miage, there and back, remains feasible, though the ridge appears to be coming more awkward, (narrow and icy.) 

    Aiguille de la Bérangère, there and back: nothing special to report, there is still some snow at the foot, otherwise completely dry. 

    The warden is going back up to the Durier hut today, (Thursday.) There should be a report soon for the Aiguille de Bionnassay assuming a break in the wind allows the parties foreseen for tomorrow, (Friday) to summit.

    Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises

    Little change, the glacier is OK but the exit on the ridge is awkward. 

    Monzino / Helbronner / Grandes Jorasses

    Little change since the last update. 

    The Tacul Pyramid  bergschrund is awkward. 

    The Traverse of the Jorasses: Be aware of verglas (especially at the Pointe Young).  It is perhaps better to not stop at the Canzio but to climb this section in the afternoon and then bivvy on the summit of the Pointe Margherite.

    The recent rock fall under the Canzio has not affected the belays. However, there is a risk of stone fall. This abseil line should only be used in emergency.

    Grande Jorasses normal route: some crevasses have opened below the Reposoir. The bergschrund above is open but can be crossed.  There is no ice on the route. Take care on the final summit slope, it is not steep, but rock is rotten. 

  4. Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur

    Update for the weekend on the mountain situation.

    From the METEO point of view, the atmospheric instability that brought clouds, some showers and temperatures slightly decreased between last night and this morning will be followed by the return of good weather which should last until Monday. From Tuesday a vast and deep North-Atlantic trough will determine a week of humidity and instability with showers.

    Helbronner Sector / Turin Refuge: good frequentation of the routes on the satellites with refreezing that allows the approach without major problems (surmountable terminals). For the other routes, numerous roped parties on the crossing of the Aiguille d'Entrêves and the Marbrées. Access to the Gingiva / Dente del Gigante - Rochefort continues to deteriorate and is now definitely dry: for this stretch maximum attention is required. Rare cordate on the Diables where, even here, the access is very delicate and dry. Situation even more complicated at Kuffner. Still a few roped parties on the crossing of the Jorasses with descent from the normal, but the live advice remains to carefully evaluate the situation of the sections on rock that have often uncertain conditions.

    Brouillard / Freney / Monzino sector: in this area the situation is constantly changing. Various rope groups concentrate on the rock roads of the Aiguille Croux and the Noire de Peuterey, but the situation is more delicate at the higher altitudes, frequented by very rare roped parties. Access to the Eccles still presents a fair practicability of the glacier, but the great high-altitude routes are characterized by conditions that require extreme caution and a willingness to desist.

    Focus on the French side (information reported to us by La Chamoniarde): the Des Cosmiques refuge has some difficulties with the telephone, in case of need do not hesitate to insist. The route of the Trois Monts al Bianco still has a potentially unstable serac in the upper part of the Tacul (along the axis of the track). Serac falls, it is known, represent an objective risk in this way, for which everyone must make their own decision independently. It is possible to form an opinion on the situation on the north side of the Mont Blanc du Tacul by looking at the Aiguille du Midi webcam. However, the terminal at the bottom of the slope is opening and there are no equipped sections; it is therefore necessary to use 2 ice axes at least for the first group.

    Via Normale Francese da Goûter: "normal" situation in the couloir of the Goûter which appears dry, with few rocks moving only early in the morning. From the latest news, the ice does not seem to be far from emerging on the arête des Bosses.

    The refuge des Grands Mulets closed yesterday, Thursday 1 August.

  5. OHM Chamonix
    Some information for mountain activities

    For hikers, there is no longer any snow at the Col de la Glière. There are still some snow patches near the Col de Salenton on the way up the Buet.

    There are also still some snow patches in the Emosson area:  There is snow after crossing the dam and at the level of the Col du Vieux.  However, there is a good track.   Elsewhere the snow patches are small and easily bypassed.  The Cheval Blanc and Veudale Gorge are OK.  Near the dinosaur prints the snow bridges are to be avoided, some of which have signs.  

    Tour Sector

    No major changes for this sector.  The crevasses are beginning to open, but not yet posing a problem. The night-time freezing is OK for the moment, given the clear skies. 

    The Aiguille du Tour by the col supérieur du Tour and the normal route on the Tête Blanche are in condition. There is some bare ice above the Col Blanc and the ridge is dry, (Petite Fourche normal route).
    No problems for the S ridge of the Aiguille Purtscheller.

    A party did the Forbes Ridge on 30/07 but it is very (too) dry. 

    There is a wide bergschrund on the Trient side of the Col Blanc. The Dorées traverse is best done East to West. (The descent from the Aiguille de la Varappe is awkward in the other direction.)  

    Argentière Sector

    Hut approach: no problems from Plan Joran and for the ladders, hand line in place. 

    The Flêche Rousse is no longer in condition. There no problem with the bergschrund for the Aiguille d'Argentière by the glacier du Milieu but there is an awkward pitch on rock just above. The next warm period will probably put the route finally out of condition
    The Jardin ridge remains in condition. (Once the descent by the Glacier du Milieu is no longer practical, it will be necessary to abseil down the S pillar and the “Pirate” route.) 

    Rock routes: no problems reported. 

    Charpoua

    The Drus traverse is in good condition.  No problems on the glacier, no stone fall reported for the moment.

    Rock routes: no problems reported. 

    Talèfre Sector

    The Pointe Isabelle (bare ice on the summit slope,) and the normal route on the Courtes are feasible, given a good night-time freeze.

    the bergshrund on the Moine ridge on the Verte still ok, with a big step.

    No problems for the rock routes, (Moine, Nonne, Évêque).

    Leschaux Sector

    Following the bad weather at the weekend, the N face of the Grandes Jorasses has a dusting of fresh snow.  Some parties on the Walker today, (Wednesday.)  The upper part looks to give mixed climbing. 
    The snow/glacier approach to the West face of the Petites Jorasses is OK. 

    Rock routes: no problems reported. 

    Nobody for the moment on the Périades but the Mont Mallet glacier is likely to be complicated.

    Envers des Aiguilles / Requin

    A fixed rope is in place at the bergschrund for the République/Grépon Mer de Glace. There is quite a lot of bare ice on the descent of the Nantillons glacier but it is still OK. 
    No major problems reported for the bergshrunds in this sector, (Subitlités Dulfériennes...). No recent information for the 3rd Pointe des Nantillons.

    The approaches to the Dent du Requin and the Pierre à Alain are OK.

    The Valley Blanche is being ascended regularly. 

    Aiguille du Midi Sector

    There have been problems with the phone at the Cosmiques hut.  You need to keep trying.
     
    Mont Blanc by the Trois Monts: there is a potentially unstable serac directly above the track leading to the Tacul summit and another affecting the traverse beneath Mont Maudit. Serac collapse is a known objective danger for this route.  It is up to each individual to decide if they accept the danger or not.  It is possible to see the latest image of the N face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul on the webcam for the Aiguille du Midi.  The lower bergschrund is opening up and the is no equipment in place.  The leader should foresee taking two ice axes.  

    Since some time, the Cosmiques Ridge has become unstable. This includes the N side and therefore, is best avoided. The Pointes Lachenal traverse is very, very dry

    There was a party on the Aiguilles du Diable traverse on 30/07. The approach is very (too?) dry. 

    Rock routes: no problems with the bergschrunds reported. 

    Grands Mulets

    The hut closes on Thursday, 1st August. The 250m section of ice on the N ridge of the Dôme is covered with snow for the moment.  There have been no recent ascents of this route. 

    Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter

    The Grand Couloir is in “normal” condition, i.e. dry with not too much stonefall in the morning.
     
    The latest information indicates that the Bosses ridge will soon have sections of bare ice.
     
    Durier / Conscrits

    The Durier hut approach from Plan Glacier, including the small glacier, is OK.

    The Bionnassay ridge has been re-tracked, (still on snow and very narrow).  There is a thin layer of fresh snow covering the ice section below the summit for the moment.  The ridge remains a snow knife edge.

    There is stone fall risk and ice on the descent towards the Col de la Bérangère. Therefore, the Dômes de Miage traverse is best done there and back from the Col des Dômes.  The classic traverse is still feasible for parties of two experienced alpinists. The Mont Tondu is not in great condition but remains feasible, (some ice sections are not steep and others are avoidable.) 
    Mont Blanc by the Aiguilles Grises

    The glacier is OK, the exit on to the ridge is sketchy, (ice).  

    Monzino

    The rock routes on the Aiguille Croux and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey seem to be the only options in this sector for the moment. 

    The approach to the Eccles bivouac is still OK by the glacier but the whole side of the mountain here is subject to numerous stone falls and rock collapses.  All recent parties have turned back.  On the Red Brouillard Pillars, only the Gabarrou-Long and the Anneaux Magiques could be accessible, for those that really want to… 

    Helbronner Sector

    Here also everything is very dry. The traverse of the Entrêves or the Marbrées. are still possible. The approach to the Salle à Manger, (Dent du Geant,) continues to get worse, (a lot of rockfall this summer.) 

    A party did the Aiguilles du Diable traverse on 30/07.  The approach is very, (too?) dry.  The Kuffner Ridge is also not in condition.

    The Jorasses traverse remains feasible, descending by the normal route, (still OK on 30/07).  The abseils on the Italian side from the Canzio bivouac have been affected by a rockfall on 24/07. 
     
    No problems with the bergschrunds reported for the Satellites.


  6. Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur

    A quick update on medium and high mountain conditions for this new summer week.

    After a weekend disturbed by heavy storms, during which the climbing activity in the high mountains was very limited, the week resumes with a more favourable climate: sunny conditions in Aosta Valley probably for most of the week, with pleasant temperatures and only temporary cloud cover for the passage of weak low-pressure waves north of the Alps.

    High mountains: rainfall on Saturday and on Sunday morning has left relatively few traces. As expected, the temperatures have dropped, although a slight rise of the isotherms is expected for today and tomorrow (up to 4000 - 4200 m). The refreezing on the snow routes has therefore improved, but we await more detailed news from the Guides and huts Managers after the resumption of today's activities. At the moment we can only confirm that most of the rock routes are, de visu, dry.

    Medium Mountain: Saturday's violent storms left some traces of water runoff on the trails, but there are no indications of criticality so far. For those who go on the Tour du Mont-Blanc, we remind you that a particular situation remains in the French area of La Flégère (already mentioned in the previous posts), for which we refer to our TMB information site: https: // bit.ly/2ywok4t

  7. Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur

    This new week in July begins with the return of the summer heat. Let's see the updates on the conditions.

    As for the meteorological aspect, an anticyclone tends to expand towards Central Europe and to strengthen, favouring sunny and stable conditions with an increase in temperatures and some afternoon heaps. In the next two or three days the isotherm is therefore expected to rise to around 4,800 / 4,900 meters.

    High mountain: in anticipation of rising temperatures, it becomes increasingly important to check the quality of the night refreezing. The choice of schedules will be fundamental especially in the planning of returns. It is also recommended to tie yourself immediately to the exit from the huts and not to underestimate the conditions of practicability of the glaciers: follow the traces and manage the rope according to the presence of crevasses and the quality of the snow. In case of uncertainty, it is always good to rely on a professional.

    In general, it is confirmed the indication to pay attention on mixte in particular where the access channels are crossed (eg Diables, approaching the Dente del Gigante ...) and where you move on unstable ground which, with the merger of snow, could be potentially dangerous. On the other hand, the rock routes (eg Satellites, Triolet - Dalmazzi, Aiguille Croux and Aiguille Noire ...) are very busy and in favorable conditions.

    Medium Mountain: the paths around the Mont Blanc are increasingly popular, in particular the Tour du Mont Blanc which, as far as the Italian and Swiss sectors are concerned, is in good condition. On the French side, the critical situation already reported in the Flégère area, affected by the renovation of the cable car, remains. Some trails in the area are indeed closed, while the classic route remains accessible. For more information, check the map and consult the website https://www.chamoniarde.com/actualites/acces-et-fermetures-de-sentiers/travaux-secteur-flegere-acces-lac-blanc

  8. OHM Chamonix
    Some information for this weekend.

    Mid Mountain etc. 

    Good footwear and poles are still recommended, (some snow patches remaining,) for the following outings: 

    - The Albert 1er hut from the col des Autannes
    - Tour des Aiguilles Rouges (col de Salenton)
    - Buet
    - Col de la Terrasse from Loriaz, (the steep part is snow free.)
    - upper part of the Tré les Eaux valley
    - Vieux Emosson / Gorges de la Veudale/ Cheval Blanc (Dinosaur imprints still partly under snow).

    There remains a steep snow field below the Col de la Glière, (the ramp is still under snow).

    There is no longer any snow on the way up to the Jonction, Nid d'Aigle or Tête Rousse.

    The traverse from the top of the Plan Joran lift to the Argentière glacier viewpoint is indicated with orange waymarks and is for experienced hikers only.  For others, e.g. with children, it is necessary to descend the ski piste to Lognan and follow the normal way.

    Concerning the Tour du Mont Blanc, the variants d'Arpette (suspect snow bridge above a scree slope,) des Fours, and the way up to the Robert Blanc hut (some snow patches above Lanchettes, a lot of snow from the Col d'Enclave and towards the Col de la Seigne), are now feasible for experienced and properly equipped hikers.

    Concerning the Haute Route Chamonix-Zermatt, the Cabane de Pra Fleuri is closed until the 5th August. An alternative is to stay at the chalet de la Barma, (adds about 1h30.)  It is open but the warden is only there at weekends, 
    The Tour des Dents du Midi is feasible.

    Following a small rockfall last week on the route "Bon Voyage” at Barberine, the loose blocks at the 4th belay ledge have been removed.

    There is still some snow on the Perrons traverser and Aiguille du Van but crampons and ice axe not necessary. 


    High Mountain

    A new heatwave is expected by the end of the week.  Be aware of the freezing levels and make early starts.

    La Tour Sector
    The Forbes Ridge is going out of condition, 70m of ice at the Bosse, (two axes, one technical recommended.) The bergschrund to reach the ridge is becoming more awkward and bare ice is appearing on the descent from the Adams Reilly Col.
    The normal routes on the Aiguille du Tour, Tête Blanche, Petite Fourche, Table Ridge, Dorées traverse, Purscheller S ridge do not present any major problems and are popular.  


    Argentière Sector
    The Aiguille d'Argentière normal route remains in good condition, (good footsteps on the final slope; firm snow and no ice.) 
    The Flêche Rousse ridge has little snow and needs a good level of technique 
    The Jardin Ridge is being done regularly. 
    Col du Tour Noir is still feasible.
    The Tournier Spur is not appealing, totally dry above the Château.


    Charpoua Sector
    The approach to the hut is free of snow. 
    The Drus traverse remains in good condition, (the approach and descent glacier is OK.) It is all “go” for the rock routes. 


    Talèfre Sector
    Here also the main activity is rock climbing: Aiguille du Moine (S Ridge, Contamine and normal route dry, good snow on the approach.)  The Evèque and Nonne-Evèque are popular. 
    Good conditions reported for the Moine Ridge on the Verte, (the small amount of snow remaining is not causing a problem.) 
    The Courtes traverse remains popular but is becoming more technical. The descent was reported to be bit awkward.
    Nobody for the moment on the Pointe Isabelle.


    Leschaux Sector
    There are always parties on the Walker.
    Rock climbing in condition behind the hut, at the Pierre à Joseph and on the Petites Jorasses W face.
    Nobody has been on the Périades for a week, (should be feasible if freezing conditions are correct.) 


    Envers des Aiguilles /Requin Sector
    The bergschrund for the République / Grépon mer de Glace is still passable on the true right, (a small slab then snow to reach the corner.) 
    Some of the bergschrunds are at the limit, (California Dream, Subtilité Dulférienne).
    The Dent du Requin (Renaudie and Chapeau à Corne ridge) remain feasible.
    Ascending the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi or Punta Helbronner is still possible but take care with the snow bridges. 


    Aiguille du Midi Sector
    A crevasse has opened up on the ridge down from the Aig du Midi, (a plank has been put in place.) 
    Trois Monts route remains OK for experienced alpinists, (with good cramponning technique.) There is a rope in place to cross the Tacul bergschrund, (small step) and at the Col du Mont Maudit, (however 2 axes are recommended.) 
    Pointes Lachenal, Cosmiques Ridge and the Midi-Plan traverses are very dry.  
    Some parties are doing the Chamonix Aiguilles traverse. 


    Plan de l'Aiguille Sector
    Frendo Spur is no longer feasible.
    Crampons are possibly useful, (if the snow is hard,) to reach the Rouge de Blaitière pillar.
    The Cordier Pillar and Charmoz-Grépon approaches are OK.  The descent by the Nantillons glacier remains OK, (almost totally on snow according to the latest reports.) 
    As always, care is needed in the descent gully, (normal route,) from the Aiguille du M (crampons possibly useful on the lower part of the Nantillons glacier if the snow is hard.)  


    Mont Blanc by the Grands-Mulets
    This is a good way to escape the usual Mont Blanc crowds. However, it should not be used as a fallback for those that cannot get a reservation in one of the Gouter route huts.  It is for true alpinists seeking adventure and calm
    Generally good conditions, the Jonction remains good and the N ridge appears to be OK. 


    Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du Goûter
    The base camp is slowly being established and should be completely operational by the end of the week, (5 tents with 8 places, 40 places in total.  Reservations to be made at https://refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr/resapublic.html by selecting "refuge de Tête Rousse" then "Bivouac / camp de base").
    Crampons are needed to cross the Grand Couloir.  It is then dry up to the Gouter hut.


    Miage/Bionnassay Sector
    The Col des Glaciers is no longer possible, (large bergschrund under the col). 
    Some bare ice is appearing on the Mont Tondu but it remains feasible. 
    Aiguille de la Bérangère is all on hard snow, no ice. 
    Dômes de Miage traverse remains in good condition, (glacier well filled in and the route well tracked. However, one needs to be competent with crampons for the descent to the Col de la Bérangère).
    The Aiguille de Bionnassay traverse still has ice below the summit and the ridge is very narrow but completely on snow. 


    Mont Blanc by the Gonella and the Aiguilles Grises
    The route is popular. The glacier is Ok.  The exit onto the ridge is a bit more awkward, (climb the rocks on the right)  


    Monzino Sector
    The way up the glacier to the Eccles bivouac remains OK, (there is a fixed rope to reach the glacier behind the hut.) 
    Conditions are dry with frequent stone fall. 
    The large gully on the Innominata ridge is completely dry, the route is not recommended.  Likewise, conditions are delicate for the Brouillard ridge (particularly below and above the Col Emile Rey, crampons are first used at around 4600m.)  
    Bad conditions reported for the Grand Pilier d'Angle and the Peuterey ridge: there is ice between the bivouac and the col Eccles and the descent from the col to the Freney glacier is very dry. The Freney glacier and the Aiguille Blanche ridge, (still snow on the crest) are OK.  The GPA is totally dry, (unpleasant climbing on sandy blocks etc, then completely on ice with stone fall after 09.00h from the rocks below the summit cornice.) 
    Care is needed on the approaches to the Rouge and Fréney Pillars (ice present and stone fall but the bergschrunds are OK.) 
    The rock routes in this sector are OK, (e.g Aiguille Noire, Aiguille Croux).


    Helbronner / Boccalatte Sector
    The rock climbs on the Satellites are in condition. No problems with the bergschrunds for the moment. The abseil descent from the Ottoz route (Pyramide du Tacul) has been re-bolted at 30m stages.  There is also a bolt to protect crossing the bergschrund. 
    The Kuffner Ridge is very dry.  Likewise, for the approaches to the Diable Ridge and the Salle à Manger on the Dent du Géant, (good conditions afterwards.)
    The Tour Ronde remains popular by the SE ridge integral, with descent by the Col Freshfield. However, it is not really to be recommended. 
    The Aiguilles d'Entrêves traverse is being done frequently (information on the descent from 05/07 ici).
    The Grandes Jorasses traverse is in good condition, well tracked up to the abseils from the Canzio, after this the rocks are mostly dry.)  It is popular.
    The normal route on the Jorasses is still feasible.  Pay attention to snow and re- freezing conditions.  A bivvy on the summit with a dawn descent is perhaps a solution if the temperatures rise as foreseen. 

  9. Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur

    The week began with a small meteorological surprise: a light sprinkling of snow at medium altitudes. However, the situation should evolve rapidly.

    Weather update: the small low-pressure wave that brought disrupted weather in the Aosta Valley, with the return of snow at altitudes just over 2000 m, moves away to the east; the occurrence of a western flow will favour sunny weather in the coming days, with temperatures gradually increasing.

    High mountains: while awaiting the return information from Alpine Guides and Refuge Managers about the potentially positive effects of this lowering of temperatures, we remind you that some delicate situations persist, effect of the great heat at the end of June / beginning of July. Some areas, in fact, have been the subject of discharges of rocky material (examples: Triangle of Tacul, Tour Ronde, Couloir du Goûter ...) and for this reason a good ability to assess specific situations is required - or the support of professionals for the evaluation of the feasibility of some trips - in particular for those routes that stand in areas where the absence of snow has exposed surfaces covered by debris (especially canals and conoids). It is therefore important not to underestimate the potential dangers.

    As for the average mountain, the rains and thunderstorms of this night / morning should soon leave room for good weather. The crossing of the streams could therefore be more complex at this time due to the greater flow of the rivers. Maximum attention is recommended.

  10. Fondazione Montagna Sicura - Courmayeur
    Another beautiful summer weekend is coming and here is our update on the conditions in the mountains for the Mont Blanc area:
    the meteorological situation foresees the stabilization of an anticyclone that favors sunny weather with isotherm today at around 4,000 - 4,300 meters, while from tomorrow afternoon the approach of a low-lying area from the north will lead to a partial increase in instability, especially on Sunday.
    High mountain: the past night was very clear and this allowed a good refreezing, as it hadn't done for days; this morning the conditions of the approaches were therefore decidedly good, but of course with the hottest hours the areas exposed to the sun began to deteriorate. Roped on all the main routes, especially on satellites, Aig. d'Entrèves, crossed Midi-Helbronner, Marbrées and towards the Tooth. However, it is important to be very careful and, in the hot hours, avoid areas subject to possible stone discharges that could change with the transformation of the snow (eg today discharges of large stones to the Tour Ronde - Normal zone already at 9 am) . Greater caution is required on Sunday morning when assessing the situation, for possible Saturday night thunderstorms that could limit the refreezing.
    Trekking and hiking: the conditions are better every day for walks around Courmayeur. The snowfields persist only in the watersheds of the areas exposed to the north above the 2,400 - 2,500 meters. The main paths are abundantly visited, especially the balconies and the Tour du Mont Blanc. For the latter, we note some delicate situations: in the Swiss stretch between Champex Lac and Bovine, the path is rather bumpy with sometimes abundant water on the path resulting from the melting of the snowfields. Similar situation on the path that goes up to the Col de Balme (therefore Swiss side). Snow remains on the ascent to Col di Bonhomme (Les Contamines - F) and on the Swiss variant of Fenetre d'Arpette, which is not recommended and very little used (only with suitable equipment from high mountains).

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